Medical Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional before starting any supplement regimen or making changes to your health routine. The information presented here is based on published research but should not replace professional medical guidance.
I’ve been following the bakuchiol research closely since the first head-to-head trials appeared around 2018, and I’ll be honest — I was sceptical at first. The idea of a plant extract matching pharmaceutical-grade retinol for wrinkle reduction sounded like the kind of claim that belongs on a wellness influencer’s feed, not in a peer-reviewed journal.
Then I read the Dhaliwal et al. trial in the British Journal of Dermatology. And then the follow-up work. The data is genuinely compelling, and I’ve since revised my position significantly.
Bakuchiol isn’t retinol. It doesn’t work the same way. But it activates many of the same downstream pathways — reducing wrinkles, improving skin tone, and stimulating collagen — while being tolerable enough to use twice daily, in pregnancy, and alongside ingredients that retinol can’t be combined with. For a meaningful subset of people, that makes it the smarter choice.
What Is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (pronounced ba-KOO-chee-ol) is a meroterpene phenol compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, commonly known as the babchi plant. It has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries, primarily for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Its entry into modern skincare science came through research demonstrating that bakuchiol activates retinoid-responsive genes — the same genes that retinol targets — without binding to retinoid receptors. This means the downstream effects (collagen synthesis, cell turnover, pigmentation correction) are similar to retinol, but the mechanism is different enough that bakuchiol doesn’t cause the irritation, photosensitivity, and barrier disruption that are hallmarks of topical retinoids.
A Note on Terminology
“Retinol” and “retinoids” are often used interchangeably in skincare conversations, but they’re technically distinct. Retinoids are the broader class (including tretinoin, adapalene, retinaldehyde, and retinol). Retinol is the over-the-counter form that converts to retinoic acid (the active form) in the skin. Bakuchiol is neither — it’s a functionally retinoid-like compound from an entirely different chemical family.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol: How They Compare
This is the question everyone asks, and it deserves a nuanced answer rather than a simple winner/loser verdict. Here’s how they stack up across the criteria that actually matter:
| Attribute | Bakuchiol | Retinol |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | Activates retinoid-responsive genes indirectly | Converts to retinoic acid, binds RAR receptors directly |
| Wrinkle reduction | Comparable at matched concentrations (0.5%) | Well-established, dose-dependent |
| Collagen stimulation | Yes — upregulates collagen type I, III, IV | Yes — primary mechanism of action |
| Irritation / sensitivity | Significantly lower — suitable for sensitive skin | Common, especially early in use (“retinisation”) |
| Pregnancy safety | Considered safe (no systemic absorption concern) | Contraindicated — teratogenic risk |
| Time of use | AM and/or PM | PM only (photodegradable, increases photosensitivity) |
| Sun sensitivity | No increased photosensitivity | Yes — strict SPF use required |
| Combining with actives | Compatible with AHAs, vitamin C, niacinamide | Caution with AHAs, vitamin C — can irritate |
| Speed of results | Slightly slower onset | Faster at high concentrations |
| Typical OTC concentration | 0.5–1% | 0.025–1% |
| Cost | Generally higher per-product | Wide range; generics very affordable |
My overall take: if you can tolerate retinol without significant irritation, it remains the more extensively studied option with a longer clinical track record. But bakuchiol is the better choice for sensitive skin, pregnancy, daytime use, and anyone who wants to layer actives freely without the retinol-compatibility headaches.
The Clinical Evidence
I want to be precise about what the science actually shows rather than overstating it. The evidence base for bakuchiol is solid but still considerably smaller than retinol’s decades of clinical research.
The Landmark Dhaliwal 2019 Trial
The most important study in the bakuchiol literature is the randomised, double-blind trial by Dhaliwal et al., published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019.[1] This is the study that changed how the dermatology community views bakuchiol.
The trial enrolled 44 participants and compared 0.5% bakuchiol cream (twice daily) against 0.5% retinol cream (once daily at night) over 12 weeks. Both groups showed significant improvements in:
- Wrinkle area and wrinkle count (measured by photography and visiometer analysis)
- Skin pigmentation and tone evenness
- Skin elasticity
Crucially, there was no statistically significant difference between the two treatments on these primary endpoints — the bakuchiol group did just as well as the retinol group. But the bakuchiol group reported significantly less facial scaling and stinging. This is a meaningful clinical finding, not a marginal one.
Study Limitations to Note
The Dhaliwal trial had 44 participants over 12 weeks — robust enough for a proof-of-concept finding, but small by the standards of pharmaceutical trials. It compared 0.5% concentrations of each; we don’t know how bakuchiol performs against higher-strength retinol (0.3%, 1%) or against prescription tretinoin. Longer-term comparison data is still needed. I mention this not to dismiss the results, but because honest science communication requires acknowledging what we know and don’t know.
Earlier Mechanistic Research
A 2014 paper by Chaudhuri and Bojanowski provided the mechanistic groundwork, demonstrating that bakuchiol activates retinol-responsive genes — including those encoding collagen type I, III, and IV synthesis — despite having no structural similarity to retinoids.[2] This explains how bakuchiol can produce retinol-like results through a different molecular pathway.
Additional Evidence
A 2018 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science by Bluemke et al. showed bakuchiol reduced wrinkle depth and improved skin firmness over 12 weeks in a larger cohort (n=63).[3] In vitro research has also demonstrated bakuchiol’s antioxidant activity and ability to reduce matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression — enzymes that degrade collagen in ageing skin.
Benefits for Skin Ageing
Based on the available evidence, here’s what bakuchiol can reasonably be expected to do:
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles
The primary mechanism is upregulation of collagen synthesis genes. Bakuchiol activates collagen types I, III, and IV — the structural proteins that give skin its firmness and bounce. Clinical measurements show measurable reductions in wrinkle area and depth with consistent use over 8–12 weeks.
Improves Skin Tone and Pigmentation
Bakuchiol appears to downregulate tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin synthesis, similar to the effect of retinol. Participants in the Dhaliwal trial showed significant improvement in hyperpigmentation and overall skin tone evenness.
Increases Cell Turnover
Like retinol, bakuchiol accelerates epidermal cell turnover — meaning dead skin cells shed more quickly and new cells reach the surface faster. This contributes to brighter, smoother texture over time.
Antioxidant Protection
Bakuchiol has direct free-radical scavenging activity and has been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation. This adds a layer of protective benefit beyond the purely structural improvements.
Anti-Inflammatory Action
Unlike retinol, which can trigger inflammation during adaptation, bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory properties. It inhibits certain pro-inflammatory pathways, which may contribute to its tolerability and potentially makes it suitable for rosacea-prone skin where retinol is often too irritating.
How to Use Bakuchiol
One of bakuchiol’s practical advantages is its flexibility compared to retinol. Here’s how to use it effectively:
Concentration
Most evidence-based products use 0.5% — the concentration used in the clinical trials. Some products go up to 1%; there’s no evidence of greater efficacy at higher concentrations, and some evidence of more irritation. I’d stick to 0.5%.
Frequency and Timing
- Daytime: Bakuchiol is stable in UV light and doesn’t increase photosensitivity, so morning use is perfectly appropriate
- Evening: Also suitable — many people use it at night as a retinol substitute
- Twice daily: The Dhaliwal trial used bakuchiol twice daily (vs retinol once nightly) — twice-daily use appears to be well tolerated and may improve outcomes
Where It Fits in a Routine
Apply after cleansing and toning, before moisturiser. Unlike retinol, you don’t need to buffer bakuchiol (apply moisturiser first to reduce irritation) — it can go directly on clean skin. Combine freely with:
- Vitamin C serums
- Niacinamide
- AHAs and BHAs (though if using strong exfoliants, introduce gradually)
- Hyaluronic acid and peptides
How Long Before You See Results?
Expect 8–12 weeks of consistent use before meaningful visible improvement. Skin-cell turnover takes time — the clinical trials ran for 12 weeks for this reason. Don’t judge bakuchiol after 4 weeks.
Bakuchiol in Pregnancy
Topical retinoids and retinol are contraindicated in pregnancy due to the teratogenic risk of systemic vitamin A. Bakuchiol has no such concern — it works through a different mechanism and has no known systemic retinoid activity. This makes it the anti-aging active of choice during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Always check with your midwife or GP if you have any concerns about skincare during pregnancy.
Best Bakuchiol Products (2026)
Disclosure: Some links below are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I’ve researched and believe offer genuine value.
When choosing a bakuchiol product, I look for: clearly stated bakuchiol concentration (not just “bakuchiol extract”), a clean formulation that supports the active, and ideally third-party testing or dermatologist testing. Here are the criteria I apply:
- Concentration: 0.5% bakuchiol is the evidence-based target — products listing only “plant extract” without specifying bakuchiol percentage are not worth trusting
- Supporting ingredients: Look for formulations that include skin-barrier-supporting ingredients (ceramides, squalane, niacinamide) — these maximise tolerability
- Format: Serums tend to deliver actives more effectively than moisturisers; oil-based formulations suit dry skin; water-based serums suit oily skin
- UK brands to consider: Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides, Indeed Laboratories Bakuchiol Reface Pads, Pestle & Mortar Pure Retinol Serum (bakuchiol variant)
- International: Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum, Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide
I’ll be publishing individual product reviews as I test more options throughout 2026. See my full anti-aging skincare guide for broader context on building an evidence-based skincare routine.
Side Effects & Who Should Use It
Side Effects
Bakuchiol has an excellent tolerability profile. The Dhaliwal trial reported significantly fewer side effects than retinol — specifically less scaling and stinging. Across published research, reported side effects are minimal:
- Mild irritation (rare): Possible if starting at high frequency; introduce gradually if you have sensitive skin
- Contact sensitisation (very rare): As with any botanical ingredient, allergic contact dermatitis is theoretically possible — patch test if you have multiple sensitivities
Who Is Bakuchiol Best For?
- Sensitive or rosacea-prone skin that can’t tolerate retinol
- Pregnant or breastfeeding women who want an anti-aging active
- People who want to use an anti-aging ingredient in the morning (without photosensitivity risk)
- Anyone who wants to layer multiple actives without retinol compatibility concerns
- Retinol beginners who want to start with something milder
Who Is Retinol Still Better For?
- People who tolerate retinol well and want the most extensively researched option
- Those targeting severe photo-damage or acne (where tretinoin has a stronger evidence base)
- Cost-conscious users (retinol is generally cheaper)
Frequently Asked Questions
Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
At matched concentrations (0.5%), the landmark Dhaliwal et al. 2019 trial found no statistically significant difference between bakuchiol and retinol for wrinkle reduction and pigmentation improvement over 12 weeks — with bakuchiol causing significantly less irritation. However, retinol has a much longer clinical history and we have more data on high-concentration and long-term effects. Bakuchiol is comparable at 0.5%; whether it matches stronger retinoid formulations is unknown.
Can I use bakuchiol every day?
Yes — and twice daily if you wish. Unlike retinol, which most people need to build up to (starting with 2–3 nights per week), bakuchiol can typically be used morning and evening from the outset without significant irritation. This is one of its major practical advantages over retinol.
Can I use bakuchiol with vitamin C?
Yes — bakuchiol is compatible with vitamin C serums, unlike retinol which can cause irritation when combined with acidic vitamin C formulations. A morning routine of vitamin C serum followed by bakuchiol is a well-tolerated and potentially synergistic combination: vitamin C protects collagen from oxidative degradation while bakuchiol stimulates new collagen synthesis.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol is generally considered safe during pregnancy, making it the anti-aging active of choice when retinol and retinoids are contraindicated. It has no systemic retinoid activity and does not raise vitamin A levels in the body. Always discuss any skincare changes with your midwife or GP during pregnancy.
How long does bakuchiol take to show results?
The clinical trials showing significant improvement ran for 12 weeks. You may notice texture improvements within 4–6 weeks, but meaningful reduction in fine lines and pigmentation typically requires 2–3 months of consistent daily use. This timeline is similar to retinol — skin turnover and collagen remodelling are slow processes regardless of the active used.
Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?
There’s no known reason you can’t, but it’s also not typically recommended — if you can tolerate retinol, using both may simply be redundant. Some practitioners suggest alternating: bakuchiol in the morning, retinol at night, to layer benefits without excess irritation. For most people, choosing one or the other based on their skin type and needs makes more practical sense.
Citations
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. PMID: 29947142
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221-230. PMID: 24471735
- Bluemke A, Ring AP, Immeyer J, et al. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against skin ageing: assessment of in vitro and ex vivo tests. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022;44(3):270-282. PMID: 35229322
- Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. PMID: 31616211
- Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Molecular mechanisms of retinoid actions in skin. FASEB J. 1996;10(9):1002-1013. PMID: 8801161
- Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. PMID: 18046911
Last reviewed: 14 Apr 2026 by Steve Butler, Health Writer & Longevity Researcher